Double breasted suits [also known as DB suits] are statement pieces that speak volumes, you should wear a double breasted suit on a day you want to make a bold statement with your suit.
Yesterday, I wore a double breasted suit to my friend – Sola’s wedding [whom I happened to also style]. While I sat with my friends Josh and Jack sipping champagne with a plate of perfectly grilled delicious lamb chops which they served us at the table, I had so many people [mostly ladies] walk up to our table to compliment me on my look [Now, I must confess Jack and Josh looked really great in their sleek native wear outfit and single breasted suit respectively, however, the look of jealousy on their faces was second to none].
From the expression on Jack and Josh’s faces, they couldn’t actually figure out what made these beautiful ladies throw compliments at me – if it was my thick black luxurious beards, the Tom Ford Sunglasses I wore, my David Smith bespoke black patent loafers or my Double Breasted Suit.
For me, I knew it was my DB suit, after all, it is the easiest way to show off a bit while still looking classy. Wearing it to a dressy event such as a wedding shows you are a style step above everyone else.
A lot of people have heard about the DB Suit, few actually own it, a handful wears it appropriately. So today, I’m here to tell you how to wear double-breasted suits, but before we go further, let us take a moment and explain what the term “double breasted” means.
ANATOMY OF A DOUBLE BREASTED SUIT
The term double-breasted refers to a blazer or jacket with wide, overlapping front flaps and two parallel columns of buttons or snaps; by contrast, a single-breasted coat has a narrow overlap and only one column of buttons. In most modern double-breasted coats, one column of buttons is decorative, while the other is functional. The other buttons, placed on the outside edge of the coat breast, allow the overlap to fasten
The other buttons, placed on the outside edge of the coat breast, allow the overlap to fasten reversibly, right lapel over left lapel. To strengthen the fastening, a functional inner-button, called the anchor button or the jigger, is usually added to parallel-fasten the overlapped layers together from the inside.
Double breasted suit jackets were popular from the mid-1930s until the late 1950s, and again from the mid-1980s to the early 2000s. Now it’s back…more stylish than ever.
Now, that we all know what a double breasted suit is, here is how to rock it.
HOW TO WEAR DOUBLE BREASTED SUITS
1. Double breasted come either a 4×1, 4×2, 6×1, 6×2, 6×3 or 8×3 button constructions [the first number indicates the number of the buttons, the second indicates the number of buttons that can be fastened].
However, the most common button constructions are 6×2 [total of six buttons with two working buttons…with only one buttoned] and 4×2 [total of four buttons with two working buttons…with only one buttoned]. See picture above.
2. Never fasten the bottom button of a double-breasted jacket unless it’s a 4 X 1 or 6X1 configuration, whereby you should button the only button-able button when sitting or standing.
3. They should never come in single vent, they should either come with double side vents or no vents at all.
4. The “anchor button” also known as the jigger which is the button on the inside should be fastened at all times.
5. The double-breasted suit should always have peak lapels. The notch lapel is ideal for single-breasted suits, blazers, and sports coats and should not be used for DB Suits.
You should read : The Suit Lapel Types | Shawl Lapel vs Peak Lapel vs Notch Lapel
6. The double breasted suit isn’t a great choice for large men or men with exceptionally wide hips. If this is you, it’s best to stick to single-breasted suits.
RECOMMENDED READING: 10 FASHION AND STYLE TIPS FOR LARGE MEN
7. If you are not on the big side but you have “pot belly”, you should always wear a dark colored DB suit as it would help hide the guts.
8. It is ideal to wear a French-cuff shirt (and cuff links) with your double breasted suit for formal events.
9. DB suits can be worn in any situation such as to the office, to an event [weddings, dinner and other dressy events] and even to the bar. Ultimately, you should wear it as an elegant and charismatic alternative to the single breasted suit.
10. You should wear a pocket square with your double breasted suits whether it’s for a formal or an informal occasion.
11. The double breasted suit is already a bold statement, therefore you should avoid adding bold patterned shirts, ties and accessories to your look. Keep them in simple solid colors and in basic patterns; Don’t worry about showing off a little more, the DB suit alone can do all the talking.
12.You can wear it with either a bow tie or neck tie. For smart casual look or business casual look, you can skip the tie entirely.
13. Due to the double-breasted jacket’s construction, it is not recommended to wear a double-breasted suit unbuttoned in public. It doesn’t look great unbuttoned. For the sake of comfort, you can temporarily unbutton it while sitting, but button up once you are standing.
14. For more relaxed look, you could break your double breasted suit up by pairing the jacket with a casual trouser. See examples below.
Now that I’ve shown you how to wear your double breasted suit, go on and make a bold statement with your Double Breasted Suit and let us know how this goes.
FURTHER READING: 25 SUIT RULES ALL MEN NEED TO KNOW
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Until next time … Continue to Do Well, Live Well and Dress Very Well. Be Classy!
Yours in Style,
Kobi O. Mbagwu (Mr. Kobi)
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