How to Break Up a Suit Like A Pro | Spezzato

As a classy gentleman, how do you break up a suit effortlessly? As Pablo Picasso said, “learn the rules like a pro, so you can break them like an artist.” Here, we’ve simplified the advanced sartorial technique – Spezzato (The Suit Combination Game). Enjoy.

I was at the airport last week Monday, just waiting to board a 7 AM flight to Abuja for an early morning meeting. Then, I saw a gentleman walk straight to the Passenger Service Agent to make an inquiry… he was neatly dressed in a Navy Pinstripe Suit Jacket, a sky blue shirt, and a dark red Knit Tie. 

In my mind, I was like “Hmmm…Sharp combo”. [I couldn’t see the pants and shoes from where I was seated.]

I was curious to assess his complete look from head to toe, confident he will be wearing matching well-cut pinstripe suit pant that matches his suit jacket, and perhaps a Brown Double monk strap or Oxford shoe. So I waited till he walked away from the Agent’s desk, so I can see his full view. 

“Oh No!!!“ I muttered under my breath.

My assistant, Tosin who was sitting next to me … looked at me with astonishment, and asked “Sir, did we forget anything”?

“No, we didn’t Tosin…that dude over there is wearing a lemon green chinos and white Oxfords paired with a Navy pinstripe suit jacket…common – all in the name of fashion??? Nah, this doesn’t count”

This dude was no different from a clown, I understand his effort of trying to break up a suit, but he didn’t pull off the look well.

In fact, he failed with a capital F!

“I completely agree sir” retorted Tosin.

Then I thought, if only the young man had a partner in Style – an Image Consultant or a Style Coach, he wouldn’t have found himself dressing as he did.

Long story cut short, I later introduced myself to him as soon as we alighted from the plane at the Abuja airport and exchanged business cards. Hopefully, this brief meeting is the beginning of a sartorially beneficial relationship and style journey for both Mr. Justin and KOBI KOACHMAN.

I do know that many are making the same fashion and style mistakes too, so how can we avoid that, gentlemen?

Yes, you got it right!

By following our style guides and tips on how to dress like a proper gentleman. Let’s show you How to Master the Broken Suit.

Breaking Up Is Not So Hard To Do: Learn The Basics

Breaking up a suit is really about experimenting and having fun – and utilizing the full potential of the contents of your wardrobe. It’s an advanced sartorial technique that involves mixing the jacket (and could include a matching vest) from one suit with the pants of another. In other words, it is known as “Spezzato”, an Italian word meaning “Broken”.

This may be done to expand your wardrobe, especially for those who are just starting out. It’s really a fun and creative way to see what sort of combinations you can pull off from the contents of your small wardrobe.

And I’d say, “A lot of combinations”.

But, being able to successfully break up a suit makes this a strong style statement that only a few can pull off without looking like a clown. Ask any sartorial pro.

However, doing this with a measure of success is quite difficult but not achievable.

So how do break up a suit effortlessly?

The honest truth is, you can separate the parts of any of your suits, but you don’t make the mistake and think that every suit in your closet separates.

You do not want to end up looking like the guy at the airport… so gentlemen, sit tight and patiently read as I school you on how to break up a suit like a pro.

Let’s begin Gents!

5 Rules on How to Break Up a Suit like A Pro

#1. Mix up solids or patterns

One basic principle for successfully breaking up a suit is by pairing two different top and bottom in these number of ways – Pattern on Solid, Solid on Pattern, Solid on Solid, Pattern on Pattern.

For example, a check jacket and solid pants will go well and vice versa.

However, if you are bold enough to try the pattern on pattern, I suggest you stick to the Plaid Suit patterns -e.g. You could mix a windowpane suit and Prince of Wales or The Glen Plaid. 

But be careful when trying to break up Pinstripe suits as it could really go wrong. Personally, I suggest you avoid doing this for the following reasons: First, the Pinstripe suit looks sharp when worn completely as the idea behind the pinstripe look is the continuous lines has to go all the way from top to bottom.

Therefore when you separate them by switching either the pant or the jacket with a different pattern, the whole outfit looks incomplete. 

Overall, remember, it’s all about experimenting and having fun. Do it wisely though.

#2. Choose Compatible Fabrics

The materials play a vital role in order to flawlessly break up a suit. The material of the jacket and pants have to work together, they have to have the same weight or texture. Maybe not the same but almost the same, so the look is coordinated. Traditionally, wearing a Suit Jacket and Jeans trousers is not really considered breaking up a suit, though, in modern times, you could get away with this for Style’s Sake. Overall consider this a Casual Way of Breaking up a Suit – More on that later (No 5 below).

#3. Choose Similar Fits

This is already a style gospel you gentlemen should be familiar. For a flawless breakup, it is important that you don’t mix a fitted jacket with pants that have wider legs or a jacket that is full in the chest with fitted pants. There would be an imbalance, you will end up looking like an amoeba – shapeless.

#4. Pair Contrasting Colors

Stick to one color, as a foundation and build the rest around that. For example, a grey herringbone blazer with a white shirt and cream pants.

Avoid colors that are too close, such as navy and a softer blue. Don’t mix up too many colors. Avoid black with separates, it will clash against most colors. Just stick to dark blues and greys to be paired with a neutral color.

#5. To break up a suit makes it casual

Breaking up a suit makes it more casual, just like casual pants and a suit jacket is less formal. Instead of oxford shoes, you can wear double monk straps or loafers to finish off that casual look. Don’t ever break up a suit look with shorts!

Final Thoughts

So there you have it, gentlemen, a simple guide on how to break up a suit like a pro. Try to experiment and find new combinations following the rules above, but remember, there is time and place for everything.

How would you break up a navy blue windowpane suit or a plain grey suit? Do you consider yourself a pro in breaking up a suit?

Share your thoughts in the comments section below or better yet, join the STYLE DESTINATION FOR GENTLEMEN community on Facebook and upload some photos in a private group setting.

Until next time, continue to do well, live well, and dress really well. Stay Dapper Gents!

Yours in Style,

Kobi O. Mbagwu [Mr. Kobi]

Founder, KOBI KOACHMAN

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KOBI KOACHMAN

My name is Kobi O. Mbagwu, a professional image consultant, menswear expert, and entrepreneur who uses fashion to change people’s lives. My personal goal is to help gentlemen dress better, live well, do well and develop a unique personal style that matches their lifestyle and goals. I believe that success can be built through style. I believe that fashion is a tool that can be used to change people’s lives positively. I strongly believe that if you dress well, you look good, and if you look good, you feel good and when you feel good, you worry less, and the less you worry the more you are able to stay motivated and focused on your goals pursuit and by so doing you are able to live a more fulfilling and successful life.

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