GUIDE TO JACKET POCKET STYLE: FLAP, JETTED OR PATCH
The details are in your pocket. How do you prefer the jacket pocket style in your suits – flapped, jetted or patched
Why is the pocket styling important?
I’ll explain why …
As a menswear stylist and image consultant, I’ve seen a lot of tailors break several menswear rules when it comes to making bespoke suits. For instance, I’ve seen a casual double breasted suit made with a jetted pocket style. I’ve also seen tailors make a formal suit with a patch pocket without considering the nature of the occasion.
One thing I’ve learned after making a lot of suits for several clients is that the pocket style, lapel style, the jacket vent style, all of them matter as much as the choice of suit the client wants.
While it’s always important for you to ask your client the question – “Do you have a preference on the pocket style?”, you also need to understand the different pocket style and how best they can be applied.
You’ve gotta read this: 25 Suit Rules All Men Need To Know
So today, I am sharing with you the basic jacket pocket styles all men need to know. This article is for image consultants, menswear stylists, fashion designers, tailors, and every dapper gent out there who loves wearing suits.
Let this guide you as you plan to buy or make your next jacket or suit.
This is the most casual jacket pocket style option. As the name implies, the pockets are made up of a separate piece of cloth sewn onto the outside of the jacket. It is generally considered as a sporty type of pocket and can come with or without a flap. It is mostly seen on informal suit jacket styles like sports jackets, linen suits, summer suits, casual blazers etc.
TIP: Do not ever use this jacket pocket style for formal suits.
This is the most common jacket pocket style for men’s suit jackets. They can be used in almost all types of suit jackets. As you can see in the picture above, this jacket pocket style has a flap that covers the access to the pocket. The flap fabric is sewn in along the seam of the jetting in a way so it can be tucked into the pocket or tucked out.
The original idea behind the Flap Pocket was to protect the contents of the pockets from rain and is meant to be tucked in by default to form a jetted/besom pocket. However, these days the flap is usually always left outside except when wearing formal suits.
Also Read: Suit Buttoning Rules For Men
JETTED or BESOM POCKETS
This is the most formal type of jacket pocket style for men’s suit and contributes to a very sleek and polished appearance. As you can see from the picture above, the jetted pocket has no flap and is almost invisible.
They are usually found on classic Tuxedos and other formal suits used for weddings, races and other social events. Tuxedo jackets sometimes come in flap pockets which should be tucked into the pocket to retain a complete formal look (see pix below).
TIP: If you find a tuxedo which has a flap pocket and a notch lapel style, please don’t buy it. If your stylist insists on making this for you, fire him and hire us 🙂
JACKET POCKET STYLE: OTHER STYLES
As you can see from the picture above, the ticket pocket is narrow and is located just above the right regular pocket and roughly half as wide.
This jacket pocket style was introduced for conveniently storing train tickets around the 1860s. These days ticket pockets are usually incorporated in office suits, three piece suits, and other informal suit types. For a vintage look, use this pocket style on a classic three piece suit.
TIP: The ticket pocket should NOT be incorporated in a black tie or the tuxedo jacket.
There are straight pockets (the normal horizontal ones) and there are hacking pockets (the slanting or diagonal ones). Of course, we don’t have a vertical jacket pocket style for suits (offset besom) – maybe I’ll invent it someday as a jacket pocket style but for now, let’s stick to the current jacket pocket styles.
Hacking pockets and English tailoring have a rich history together as their primary purpose on suits was to make the pockets easier to open on horseback while riding. So a flap pocket style, jetted/besom pocket style or a ticket pocket style can be sewn as a hacking pocket.
Tip: As a fashion designer, use this hacking pocket style to make the wearer appear a bit taller or slimmer. For instance, when your choice of jacket pocket style is a flap pocket, consider the wearer – if he is on the large size, then use this style to make him appear slimmer and taller.
There you have it. I hope you’ve learned a lot by reading this today. Here is a simple scenario with a Style Quiz to test your knowledge of this topic!
As a style consultant, your client, Mr. X insists that he wants a 2 piece single breasted suit for his wedding instead of your initial suggestion of a Tuxedo Jacket with black pants look.
You would agree with me that making a single breasted two-piece suit with notch lapel and patch pocket is not an option. Even though this a beautiful combination for a normal suit, but considering the occasion – his wedding (which is a formal event) it’s going to be a lethal combination if you dare try to pull this off.
Rather, as an expert in menswear, you would consider using a peak lapel with a jetted pocket style for him to have that sleek, polished appearance in his two-piece wedding suit.
Hope you agree with me? Alright let’s now test your understanding of this topic, I’ve got a little quiz for you.
Question: If you choose not to use a jetted pocket style for the client Mr. X above, what other appropriate pocket styles should you use and why?
Let me have your answer in the comment section below.
PS. We can help you design and make your suit with any pocket style depending on your personal style, preferences or the occasion you need the suit for. Let’s talk more, please check out our menswear services and CONTACT US today. You can also find us on TWITTER, INSTAGRAM, GOOGLE+, PINTEREST, and FACEBOOK. Do follow us on any of the channels you frequently use as we continuously inspire you on how to dress well, do well and live well.
Till you hear from me again, Stay Classy!
Yours in Style,
Kobi O. Mbagwu (Mr. Kobi)
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